How to Prepare a Subfloor for LVT, Laminate & Wood Flooring

Preparing a subfloor means making it dry, sound, flat, clean and compatible with the floor you are fitting. In practice you remove old coverings and residues, repair defects, test and control moisture, prime where required, level and smooth the surface, then add the correct underlay or overlay before installation. Do each step in sequence and your new floor will look better and last longer.

What proper subfloor preparation delivers

A well prepared subfloor is about more than appearance. It reduces movement, prevents premature wear and helps adhesives and click systems perform as designed. Think in five checks.

• Dry: within the manufacturer’s moisture limits for the floor and adhesive system.

• Sound: no loose screed, hollow patches, rot, deflection or squeaks.

• Flat and smooth: within the tolerance set by the floor covering, usually measured under a straightedge.

• Clean: free of dust, paint, oil, plaster, bitumen and water-soluble residues that weaken adhesion.

• Compatible: primed correctly and finished with the right leveller or underlay for the product being installed.

Those checks build on each other. Moisture control affects primer choice. Primer affects leveller adhesion. Leveller selection affects underlay and adhesive choice. Cut a corner early and the later steps become riskier and more expensive.

Plan around the floor you are fitting

Different floors have different preparation demands.

Glue-down LVT needs an extremely smooth, flat and dust-free surface because every small ridge telegraphs through. A smoothing compound is almost always required, even on apparently flat screed. To explore suitable products, see our category for glue-down LVT, which shows typical finish expectations and compatible accessories: https://newlandfloorsanddoors.co.uk/collections/glue-down-lvt.

Click LVT tolerates tiny imperfections but still needs a flat base. A thin high-density underlay may be used where specified, but soft foam underlays can allow joint flex and are usually unsuitable. If you are comparing click ranges and profiles, browse our click LVT options at https://newlandfloorsanddoors.co.uk/collections/luxury-vinyl.

Laminate is always floated. It uses an underlay that provides support, acoustic comfort and often a vapour barrier on ground floors. Laminate still needs a flat base. Underlay is not a substitute for levelling.

Engineered wood can be floated with underlay, glued down to a smoothed subfloor, or secret nailed over prepared timber. Moisture and movement control are especially important for timber.

As a rule of thumb, many resilient floors, including most LVTs, are designed for a substrate flatness of around 3 mm over a 2 m straightedge. Some click products allow a little more, and some glue-down ranges demand tighter tolerances. Always check the manufacturer’s limits and work to the tighter requirement if products differ.

 

 

Removing old flooring, fixings and residues

Strip out existing floor coverings, gripper rods, thresholds, adhesives and self-adhesive tile residues. If skirting removal will give a better finish, remove it carefully and number pieces for reinstallation.

Lift carpet and underlay, then prise up grippers by sliding a wrecking bar under the nails. For vinyl, tiles or sheet goods, use a scraper to release the bond. Old bitumen or pressure-sensitive adhesives can be stubborn. Mechanically scrape and, if permitted by the substrate, abrade to remove contamination. Avoid solvents that can drive residues deeper, soften screed or leave oily films that inhibit primers and adhesives.

Protect adjacent rooms with dust sheets and close doors to control dust spread. Cap water pipes, isolate electrics where necessary and remove any protruding fixings or staples that could damage tools or later floor layers. Vacuum thoroughly once the surface is cleared so you can see exactly what you are dealing with.

Inspecting timber subfloors

For timber, the two broad failure modes are movement and moisture. Begin with structure.

Walk the floor slowly. Listen for squeaks and feel for bounce. Use a straightedge to spot ridges, cupped boards and dips. Check around wet areas and external walls for staining or soft spots that suggest leaks or previous moisture ingress.

Tighten the floor. Re-screw loose boards into joists with appropriate screws, not nails, and pull down any proud boards. Where a chipboard deck has swelled at joints, plane the edges and sand ridges back to level. Replace heavily damaged sheets. If you intend to overlay with plywood or a board specifically designed as an underlayment, repair first, then overlay.

Deal with gaps. Fill narrow gaps with a suitable flexible filler or a cementitious feather finish compatible with the overlay system. For wider gaps or missing tongues, cut patches that are fully supported and screwed to noggins or joists.

Check services. Make sure pipe runs and cables are protected and sit below the surface. Any unsupported pipes that rattle underfoot will telegraph noise and can crack screed toppings.

Inspecting concrete and screed subfloors

On mineral substrates, you are looking for strength, continuity and cleanliness.

Knock or tap across the slab or screed. Hollow sounds indicate de-bonded patches that must be cut out and repaired. Scratch the surface with a screwdriver. If loose fines abrade easily, the surface may be weak or contaminated with laitance, a friable cement-rich layer that forms on new screeds. Laitance must be removed mechanically because it cannot carry a leveller or adhesive.

Assess cracks. Hairline, stable shrinkage cracks can often be treated and filled. Structural cracks that open, close or step with load indicate movement that must be stabilised before any cosmetic repair. Do not bridge live movement with levelling compound and hope for the best.

Look for contamination. Oil, grease, paint, plaster, adhesive residue and curing agents all reduce adhesion. Remove them by mechanical methods suited to the substrate strength. The goal is a clean, sound, dust-free plane that will accept primer and levelling compound.

Confirm flatness with a straightedge and note high spots and depressions. Mark up areas requiring grinding or bulk fill. Knowing the volume you need to fill informs leveller selection and quantity.

Cleaning and decontamination

Preparation compounds do not stick to dirt. Vacuum using a machine with effective filtration. On concrete and screed, mechanically remove laitance and stubborn residues where required. On timber, sand the surface to remove contaminants and to provide a fresh key where adhesives will be used.

Degrease only with products specified for subfloors that fully rinse or evaporate without leaving a film. Flood washing is usually counterproductive on concrete because it adds moisture and can drive contaminants deeper. Clean edges and corners with care so primers and levellers can flow uniformly to the perimeter.

After mechanical work, vacuum again thoroughly. Then keep foot traffic to a minimum so dust is not reintroduced.

Moisture testing and control

Moisture is the single biggest cause of floor failures. Test, do not guess.

For concrete and screed, the UK standard approach for resilient floor coverings is to measure subfloor relative humidity using an insulated in-situ probe or hood hygrometer placed on the prepared surface. The test is left to equilibrate as per the instrument’s instructions. Many resilient floors and adhesives require a subfloor reading at or below 75 percent RH when no surface-applied DPM is used. Some adhesives permit higher RH when a compatible moisture suppressor is part of the system. Always follow the floor covering and adhesive manufacturer’s moisture limit.

For timber subfloors, check wood moisture content with a calibrated wood moisture meter. Typical indoor equilibrium for timber in UK homes is often around 8 to 11 percent, but the acceptable range depends on the product and the installation method. The timber subfloor and the new engineered or solid wood floor should be within the manufacturer’s stated moisture spread to limit differential movement.

If concrete or screed is too wet, you have two broad options. Allow the substrate to dry naturally, which can take weeks or months depending on thickness, ambient conditions and whether there is a structural DPM under the slab. Or apply a compatible surface DPM or moisture vapour suppressant that is designed to control residual moisture to the limits of your floor and adhesive system. Epoxy DPMs, polyurethane moisture suppressants and two-coat systems exist for different moisture levels and subfloor types. Always check the declared maximum RH they are designed to handle and the recoat and cure times before subsequent layers.

One important distinction. A thin polythene layer integrated into some underlays helps control water vapour transmission for floating floors, but it is not a cure-all for a damp slab. It does not convert an unsuitable substrate into a suitable one for glue-down LVT or timber. Where the moisture is above the permissible limit, use a proper surface DPM system or delay the installation until the slab dries to the required level.

High alkalinity in new concrete can attack certain adhesives and floor finishes. Where pH testing is specified by a manufacturer, follow their method and limits. Primers and moisture control systems are usually designed to condition the surface so the final adhesive operates within its pH range.

If you need specialist moisture control or priming products, review the range of subfloor preparation products, including surface DPMs, primers and smoothing compounds, in Newland Floors and Doors’ subfloor preparation products collection: https://newlandfloorsanddoors.co.uk/collections/subfloor-preparation-products.

Priming for adhesion and porosity control

Primers serve three main roles. They control suction on porous substrates so levelling compounds do not dry too quickly. They improve adhesion between the substrate or DPM and the smoothing compound. They isolate or stabilise dusty or surface-treated areas when used as part of a tested system.

On porous concrete and screed, a water-based acrylic multi-surface primer is commonly diluted according to the substrate’s absorbency and rolled or brushed out to a thin, continuous film. Do not allow puddles. Allow the primer to dry as specified. A uniform, slightly tacky or sealed finish is the goal, not a glossy lake.

On non-porous or very smooth surfaces, for example over epoxy DPMs, old ceramic tiles, metal or dense power-floated concrete, use a primer designed for non-absorbent substrates. These often include fine aggregate to create a mechanical key. The textured film gives the leveller something to grip.

Timber decks usually require a primer compatible with the chosen levelling compound or a direct plywood overlay. Some flexible levelling compounds specify a primer and reinforcing mesh on timber to manage movement. Always follow the compound’s data sheet, because primer type and dilution influence working time and bond strength.

Levelling and smoothing the surface

Flatness and smoothness are distinct. Levelling brings the surface into a single plane. Smoothing achieves a fine finish suitable for direct adhesion or a floating system. Many modern compounds do both when used at the right thickness.

Assess flatness with a 2 m straightedge placed in multiple directions. Mark depressions and high points. If a high point is significant, it is better to reduce it by grinding rather than build the rest of the floor up to meet it. This reduces material use and drying time.

Choose a compound to suit the substrate and the floor covering. There are general-purpose two-part compounds for absorbent screeds, fibre-reinforced levellers for substrates subject to slight movement such as timber, rapid-setting options where turnaround matters, and flexible water-based products that bond to a wide range of surfaces when correctly primed. If underfloor heating is present, confirm the leveller is rated for it and follow heating and cooling cycles before and after installation.

Mix exactly as directed using a clean bucket and a suitable mixing paddle. Measure water carefully. Too much water weakens the set and increases shrinkage. Too little water prevents flow and can create an uneven finish. Rest the mix if the data sheet calls for slaking, then remix briefly.

Pour and spread promptly. Work methodically from a far corner toward an exit. For larger areas, maintain a wet edge by working with two people, one mixing and one applying. Use a gauging trowel or pin leveller to control thickness. The product data sheet will state the minimum and maximum application depths per pass. Do not exceed them.

De-air with a spiked roller while the compound is still wet to help remove trapped bubbles and to knit pours together. Wear spiked overshoes so you can walk on the surface without marking it. Roll lightly and avoid overworking the surface.

Observe cure times. Some rapid systems can accept floor coverings in a few hours at 20 degrees Celsius. Many require 16 to 24 hours or longer. Low temperature, high humidity and depth slow drying. Protect the area from draughts and direct heat that can force a skin to form while the body remains soft.

Levelling over timber

For timber, two approaches are common. The more robust method is to overboard with a flooring-grade plywood or specialist underlayment board of suitable thickness, typically 6 to 9 mm for LVT, thicker for vinyl sheet or where the deck is uneven. Fix at the specified screw spacing, usually around 100 to 150 mm centres on the perimeter and 150 mm in the field. Stagger joints, leave a small expansion gap at room edges and fill fastener heads. Then apply a feather finish or a thin smoothing layer to provide a continuous, smooth face ready for flooring.

Alternatively, where specified by the leveller manufacturer, you can prime, reinforce if required, then apply a fibre-reinforced, flexible smoothing compound directly to the timber deck. This can save height and time but relies on the deck being well fixed with minimal deflection. Observe minimum thicknesses and use perimeter foam where necessary to decouple the layer from walls and skirts.

Patching, cracks and movement joints

Large holes and chased service routes need a repair mortar that is slump free and fast drying. Pack well into the void and trowel level with the surrounding surface. Let it set before smoothing or levelling.

Static cracks can be opened slightly to form a V, primed and filled with an appropriate compound. Where movement is expected, honour the joint through the leveller and maintain it in the final floor with a suitable expansion profile. Do not fill structural movement joints with levelling compound.

Underlays and overlays by floor type

Underlay is not a universal cure. Choose it to suit the product and subfloor.

Glue-down LVT is generally installed directly onto a well smoothed and primed subfloor using the manufacturer’s recommended adhesive. An underlay is rarely used because it introduces a soft layer that can compromise bond and indentation resistance. Some specialist acoustic underlays exist for resilient floors, but use only where the floor maker approves the system.

Click LVT often benefits from a thin, dense underlay designed for vinyl click. It cushions minor texture, can provide acoustic comfort and sometimes includes a vapour barrier. The underlay must be firm enough to support the click joints. Avoid soft foam products intended for laminate unless they are expressly approved for vinyl.

Laminate always uses an underlay because it is a floating system. On ground floors, a built-in vapour barrier is common to control moisture from the subfloor. Acoustic and thermal properties vary. Choose a product that meets the floor manufacturer’s density and compression requirements. A thick, soft underlay can make the floor feel springy and can stress joints if the base is not flat. For a deeper dive into underlay choices for laminate, see our guide Does Laminate Flooring Need Underlay? at https://newlandfloorsanddoors.co.uk/blogs/news/does-laminate-flooring-need-underlay.

Engineered wood can be floated over a suitable underlay or glued down directly. Floating systems require an underlay that balances acoustic, thermal and vapour control as specified. For glue-down installations, the subfloor must be very flat and smooth. Moisture control is critical for timber, so confirm both subfloor and environment meet the product’s limits before installation.

At room edges, always leave the expansion gap recommended by the flooring manufacturer. This must be measured from the installed floor surface, not just the subfloor.

Doorways, thresholds and heating systems

Plan transitions early. Calculate finished floor heights so doors clear and threshold strips sit where intended. If you are raising the floor sufficiently to foul door swings, trim doors carefully and rehang.

Underfloor heating adds rules. Only use levelling compounds approved for the heating type. Incorporate reinforcing where the data sheet calls for it. Commission the heating system before floor installation to check for leaks or faults, then run a controlled heating and cooling cycle to bring the screed up to operating temperature and back down. Installation usually occurs at a moderate, stable setpoint. After fitting the floor, bring the temperature up in small increments over several days. Sudden changes can damage smoothing layers and finishes.

Essential testing and prep tools

• 2 m straightedge or long spirit level for flatness checks

• Hygrometer or moisture meter appropriate to the subfloor

• Mixing bucket and paddle for primers and levellers

• Spiked roller and overshoes for de-airing compounds

• Vacuum with fine filtration to remove dust

You will also need trowels, scrapers, a drill for mixing, screwdrivers, saws for timber trimming, PPE and, where specified, reinforcing mesh or tapes compatible with your leveller.

 

 

Final checks before laying the new floor

Before you start fitting the floor, confirm moisture is within the limits set by the floor and adhesive system, flatness meets the manufacturer’s tolerance across the whole area, the surface is clean, fully primed where required and dust free, levelling and repair products are fully cured for the site conditions, and your planned heights, transitions and expansion gaps are all achievable.

Take your time with this pass. Run the straightedge in multiple directions. Shine a raking light across the surface to reveal trowel marks or small ridges that may telegraph through LVT or cause rocking under laminate. Clean any remaining dust. Then keep the area protected until the floor goes down.

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

Skipping moisture testing sits at the top of the list. Guesswork costs money. Use the right instrument and follow the stated method. If a surface DPM is required, use it as part of a tested system, not as a last-minute patch.

Using the wrong primer or skipping it entirely is common. Primers are not optional where the leveller calls for them. They are matched to the substrate and compound chemistry. The wrong choice can lead to pinholes, weak bonds or premature failure.

Pouring a leveller too thick in one pass is another trap. Every compound has a stated minimum and maximum depth per layer. Exceeding it risks cracking and slow drying. If you need a build-up beyond the stated maximum, use multiple passes or a bulk-fill product designed for depth.

Relying on underlay to mask a wavy floor is also risky. Underlays are compressible. They distribute minor texture, they do not flatten humps or fill depressions. A flat base yields a better, quieter floor with fewer joint stresses.

Starting installation before materials have cured or acclimatised shortens lifespan. A leveller may be hard enough to walk on hours after application, but that does not mean it has finished drying. Follow the stated covering times for the thickness and temperature on site.

Neglecting movement joints can transmit cracking through levellers and finishes. If the building has a structural joint, maintain it through the layers with an appropriate profile in the finished floor.

Levelness requirements for LVT and laminate

Manufacturers define flatness tolerances because their products are engineered to operate across firm, even support. While values vary, a practical target for LVT and laminate is often no more than 3 mm deviation under a 2 m straightedge placed anywhere on the floor. Glue-down LVT tends to demand the most precise finish because any deviation can telegraph through and show under raking light. Click LVT and laminate have slightly more forgiveness in terms of telegraphing, but they still need even support under each joint to avoid deflection and creaking. When tolerances are tighter in the product data, always adopt the tighter figure.

Flatness is not the same as levelness to the horizon. A floor can be uniformly sloped yet flat within tolerance. The product will perform, but doors, thresholds and furniture may need adjusting. If a slope is unacceptable for use, address it at the levelling stage by feathering transitions and building up low areas as permitted by the structure.

Drying times, cure windows and scheduling

Cure times do not follow a single clock. They depend on product chemistry, depth, temperature, humidity and air movement. Rapid-setting smoothing compounds can be ready to walk in two to four hours at around 20 degrees Celsius, with covering windows from as little as three hours to the next day depending on thickness. Standard-setting products may need overnight or longer. Two-part epoxy surface DPMs typically cure to accept primers and levellers after several hours, then require full cure before adhesive application according to the system schedule.

Depth extends drying non-linearly. A 3 mm levelling layer might be ready to cover the next day, while a 10 mm build-up can take significantly longer. Cold, damp sites lengthen everything. Plan work sequences so each layer gets its full window. Rushing is the fastest way to create callbacks.

Ventilation matters. Gentle air movement helps moisture disperse. Strong draughts or direct heat can skin a leveller or cause rapid drying at the surface, which traps moisture below and weakens the layer. Protect the area from extreme conditions, but keep the environment fresh and within the temperature band stated by your materials.

Safety, dust and legacy materials

Subfloor work can generate dust and expose legacy materials. Wear appropriate PPE including eye protection, gloves, and a mask rated for fine dust when sanding or grinding. Use extraction on tools where possible and vacuum regularly with a machine that captures fine particles rather than recirculating them.

Be cautious with old vinyl tiles and black bitumen adhesives in properties built before the year 2000. These may contain asbestos. Do not sand, grind or heat them. If you suspect asbestos, stop work and arrange for testing and, if required, licensed removal. Do not disturb unknown layers beneath in the hope of a quick fix.

Follow the safety data sheets for primers, levellers and DPMs. Provide adequate ventilation and avoid skin contact. Clean tools promptly. Dispose of waste responsibly and in line with local regulations.

When to call in a professional

Some scenarios justify specialist help. High or persistent moisture readings without an obvious cause can indicate building defects that need investigation. Significant structural movement in a screed or slab is not a DIY patch. Timber subfloors with widespread rot or sagging joists require joinery work before any levelling. Underfloor heating systems must be tested and commissioned properly, and embedded electric mat repairs should be left to qualified installers.

If your project is large, time sensitive or contains several risk factors at once, a professional survey and installation can save money by avoiding rework. An experienced installer will also set tolerances and choose products to suit the site conditions so the floor performs over the long term.

Materials and product choices explained

Primers come in two broad families for this work. Water-based acrylic multi-surface primers seal porous substrates, reduce suction and help levellers bond consistently. They can be diluted to suit the absorbency of the substrate. Textured primers for smooth or non-absorbent surfaces include very fine hard aggregate to provide a mechanical key and are used over dense power-floated slabs, ceramic tiles, epoxy DPMs and metals.

Moisture control products manage residual construction moisture or mild ingress up to a stated limit. Epoxy resin DPMs are usually two component systems applied in one or two coats depending on the product and the site readings. Moisture vapour suppressants provide control for lower levels of residual moisture as part of a complete system.

Smoothing and levelling compounds vary by formulation. Two-part bag and bottle systems deliver consistent polymer content and strong bonds. Single-part water-based powders are convenient and can be highly capable when matched to the right substrate and primer. Fibre-reinforced versions add microfibres that help manage microcracking and improve flexural strength, which is useful over timber or where minor movement is expected. Rapid-setting options speed projects where downtime is costly. Some products reduce or remove the need for priming on specified substrates, which can save a step, but only when the data sheet states this.

Repair mortars are used to fill holes, reprofile edges and stabilise defects. Choose a rapid, slump-free mortar designed for internal floors so it stays where you put it and reaches strength quickly. Feather-finishing compounds bridge small transitions and smooth minor imperfections to a very fine edge, ideal before glue-down LVT.

Adhesives and underlays are the final link between preparation and floor. Use the adhesive prescribed for your floor and conditions. Pressure-sensitive, wet lay, firm set and high temperature formulations all exist for different coverings and site environments. Underlays vary in density, compressive strength, acoustic performance and vapour control. Match your choice to the floor manufacturer’s guidance and the room location.

If you need a one-stop place to find surface DPMs, primers, smoothing compounds and the tools mentioned here, explore Newland Floors and Doors’ subfloor preparation products, which group the essentials for getting a base ready for LVT, laminate and wood.

Practical examples that guide choices

A small Victorian hallway with a mixed patchwork of old screed, paint and bitumen residue will seldom accept a leveller reliably without the right steps. Mechanically remove weak layers and contamination, chase out cracks to sound edges, patch with a rapid mortar, then apply a textured primer that bonds to the remaining dense substrates. Once primed, pour a fibre-reinforced leveller suitable for thin feathering at door thresholds. Test moisture at the start, not at the end. If the reading is above the limit, introduce a compatible moisture control system before priming.

A new extension slab that looks flat may still have laitance and residual moisture. Lightly abrade or shotblast to remove laitance, vacuum, check RH. If readings are acceptable for a floating laminate with an underlay that includes a vapour barrier, you may proceed after priming only where required by the leveller. If you plan glue-down LVT and readings hover above 75 percent RH, adopt a surface DPM that is tested with your primer, leveller and adhesive. The DPM cures, then receives a primer suited to non-absorbent surfaces, followed by a mid-strength leveller to achieve a smooth, uniform surface.

A creaking first-floor chipboard deck under a planned engineered wood floor needs structural work before cosmetics. Re-screw boards to joists, add noggins where movement persists, sand joint ridges, then overboard with flooring-grade plywood fixed on the correct grid. A feather finish brings the face to a fine smoothness ready for either a fully bonded timber system or a floated engineered wood with an appropriate underlay.

Environmental conditions during and after prep

Products are formulated to work within temperature and humidity bands. A cold site on a damp November day will slow everything. A site that is too warm or too dry can accelerate water loss and cause surface defects. Most levellers specify a substrate and ambient temperature range, commonly around 5 to 30 degrees Celsius, with the sweet spot close to normal room conditions. Keep windows on trickle, remove sources of rapid airflow and maintain a consistent environment. If the heating system is new, commission it to a steady moderate setting rather than cycling between extremes.

Once the new floor is down, continue to manage the environment. Sudden swings in temperature and humidity stress all floor coverings, especially timber. Maintain ventilation and avoid wet trades over a newly installed floor. Protect finished surfaces during other works with breathable, non-staining coverings.

Documentation and manufacturer guidance

Treat each preparation product as part of a system. Read the data sheets and, where relevant, the British Standards that apply to resilient and timber floor installations. Product sheets state substrate suitability, primer selection, mixing ratios, pot life, flow time, thickness range, walk-on time and covering window. Keep those documents on site and record your moisture readings, dates and batch numbers. If an issue arises later, notes save guesswork.

Where several brands are mixed, verify cross-compatibility or select a single-system route tested by the manufacturer. Using a primer from one brand, a leveller from a second and a DPM from a third can work when the chemistry aligns, but a tested system reduces uncertainty and often gives you a single technical support path.

Get the right materials for your subfloor

Shop subfloor preparation products including surface DPMs, primers, smoothing and levelling compounds, plus essential tools, in one place via Newland Floors and Doors’ subfloor preparation products.

Frequently Asked Questions:

What moisture level is acceptable before fitting LVT on a screed?

For most resilient floors without a surface DPM, a subfloor relative humidity at or below 75 percent RH is a common requirement. Always follow the floor and adhesive manufacturer’s stated limit for your product.

Do you supply surface DPMs, primers and levelling compounds that are compatible as a system?

Yes. Our subfloor preparation range includes DPMs, primers and smoothing compounds designed to work together when used as directed. If you share your subfloor and floor type, we can suggest a suitable system.

Can you recommend an underlay for click LVT or laminate?

We can advise on underlays designed for click vinyl and for laminate, including options with vapour barriers and acoustic benefits. Underlay supports a good subfloor, it does not flatten a wavy base.

Are your levelling compounds and adhesives suitable for underfloor heating?

Many are, and the product pages and data sheets indicate this clearly. We can help you choose materials rated for the heating type and guide you on the correct commissioning and curing cycles.

Do you deliver subfloor preparation products across the UK?

Yes. We offer UK-wide delivery on products ordered from our online store. Lead times vary by product and brand, and we will confirm delivery details when you order.

Can you help interpret my moisture readings and suggest a DPM?

Yes. Share how you tested, your readings and the floor you plan to install. We will outline suitable moisture control options and primers so you can build a compatible system.