How do I clean this floor?
To clean an oiled or lacquered floor, always follow the manufacturer's recommended cleaning procedure. Alternatively, you can use a well-wrung mop with water only. We do not recommend using a steam mop or any other cleaning solutions on our floors.
If your floor is unfinished, it should be sealed with an oil, lacquer or wax before use. Until it's finished, only dry-clean it (vacuum or a dry mop), as bare wood will mark and swell if it gets wet.
Does my floor need to acclimatise before installing?
Yes, we recommend letting your floor acclimatise for 3 to 4 days before installation. This should be done in the same room where it will be installed, and the flooring should remain in its sealed packaging to prevent warping due to temperature changes. Avoid storing the flooring outdoors, in outbuildings, or in areas with damp or condensation issues.
How much wastage do I need?
We generally recommend accounting for 10% wastage for plank floors, and 15% for herringbone. However, factors such as room shape and laying style can impact this, so always consult with your installer first.
What condition should the subfloor be in?
The subfloor beneath your floor must be in good structural condition, free from damp, rot, fungal or insect infestation, and contaminating residues. It should be flat, with uneven areas not exceeding 3mm over a 2m area. The surface should be vacuumed and completely free of debris before installation. Ensure hot pipes are well insulated to prevent localised hotspots, which can cause the wood to warp or shrink.
What is colour variation and how should I lay the planks
with colour variation?
Colour variation refers to the natural differences in colour and grain that occur in real wood. To achieve a balanced look, blend planks from several packs across the entire room rather than laying one pack at a time.
What type of joints does this flooring have?
Our engineered floors typically feature tongue and groove joints, unless stated otherwise on the individual product page.
What expansion gaps are needed?
Wood naturally expands and contracts with changes in temperature and humidity. When fitting a wood floor, leave expansion gaps wherever the boards meet a wall, structural support, stairs, breakfast bar, fireplace, or central heating pipe. Gaps must also be considered at doorways to allow for differing expansion between rooms. Use spacers at regular intervals when fitting and remove them before installing skirting boards, beading, or trims. Allow a 2mm gap for every metre span of the floor, with a minimum of 10-15mm gap regardless. For areas over 5m in width, extra provisions should be made for expansion.
How can this flooring be installed?
Engineered plank flooring can be installed by floating, secret-nailing, or gluing down. For floors with underfloor heating, we recommend a glue-down installation for better heat transfer. Herringbone floors are typically glued down but can be floated under the right conditions. Always refer to the manufacturer's fitting instructions for best results.
Can I have underfloor heating with this flooring?
Suitability depends on the specific product, some of our ranges are rated for underfloor heating up to a maximum flow temperature, while others (including most solid wood) are not. Please check the underfloor heating suitability shown on the product page before you buy, and always refer to the manufacturer's installation guide for the appropriate method.
What does 'pack includes cut lengths' mean?
This means that at least one plank within your pack will be cut in half. This is intentional to help spread the joints out across your floor, preventing weakening. The other planks will be of the same length.
Can I use this flooring in my bathroom?
We generally do not recommend using engineered or solid wood flooring in bathrooms or wet rooms. For waterproof options, consider products specifically designed for high-moisture environments, such as Click LVT.
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